Japanese Alps
I’ve always wanted to
see the Japanese Alps, so with three extra days in Kyoto I headed north. I
started in Kanazawa, renowned for its superb Kenrokuen Garden. The leaves had
just started to turn, and the gardeners had already erected the famous conical
rope snow-protecting structures over some of the ancient pines. Kanazawa has
several interesting museums as well as a castle and intact Edo period geisha and
samurai districts. Oyama Shrine is delightful – a classic Japanese shrine with
an elegant garden entered through a bizarre Victorian 3-story gate, the top
story of which has stained-glass windows. One day wasn’t nearly enough time for
Kanazawa.
Next stop: Shirakawa-go.
I arrived on the 6:00 pm bus, and the village was pitch black. The information
desk was just closing down, but the info guy was kind enough to loan me a
much-needed flashlight and a very detailed map of the area. I was horrified the
next day to see the long suspension bridge I had traveled across, unknowingly,
in the dark.
Shirakawa-go is most
likely the closest I’ll ever get to Brigadoon. Truly a village that looks like
it has been forgotten by time (until the hordes of leaf-peepers arrived
mid-morning.) It is a World Heritage site, known for its thatched “gassho”
(praying hands) roofed farmhouses. At this point I was far enough north and into
the mountains so that the autumn leaves were in full glory, making an
indescribably charming village even more captivating. I stayed at Kanja
(about $90), one of the gassho minshukus, (dinner-bed-and-breakfasts). The
meals were scrumptious: many small courses of delectable tidbits. The area is
particularly known for thin slices of Hida beef (every region in Japan has its
Kobe-beef equivalent, all equally melt-in-your-mouth and divine) cooked with
vegetables and a miso-based sauce atop a magnolia leaf on individual grills.
After dinner, I had a rejuvenating long hot soak in a traditional Japanese deep
cypress bath tub. Awesome!
Lastly, I visited
Takayama, a city with extensive historical districts, a hillside temple and
shrine walk (from whence its nickname of “Little Kyoto”), and extraordinarily
vivid fall foliage. Although it pains this New Englander to admit it, I’ve never
seen more arresting fall colors. I splurged ($175) and stayed at the Takayama Green
Hotel. While there, guests do everything (including dine – more Hida beef!)
in yukatas (bathrobes) provided for their use. The hotel has hotsprings, and the
two onsens (spas) are quite luxurious, each with 2 indoor and 2 outdoor baths.
Mimi Santini-Ritt
2008