Croatia
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| Croatia |
I suddenly found myself
with 2 weeks and a clear calendar. Croatia has long been on my bucket list, so I
went on line and found a Gate 1 tour of Croatia that fit my availability
perfectly. I’ll confess I was somewhat hesitant to be heading off with no travel
companion on a tour operated by a company I’d had no experience with, but it all
worked out very well. The Gate 1 tour was inexpensive, well organized, featured
superb guides (our guide Brane was a consummate pro) and our hotels ranged from
good to very good. I was quickly befriended by my fellow travelers and never
lacked for companionship. While February may not the best time of the year to be
visiting the Adriatic, I figured it had to be better than this winter’s Boston.
My off-season gamble paid off -- what was lost in Alpine views obscured by
overcast skies was more than made up for by having the small walled towns to
ourselves. It never got really cold or rained during prime sight-seeing time and
we did enjoy a few gorgeous sunny days.
The first two-thirds of
our itinerary followed the Croatian/Dalmatian, Bosnian and Montenegran coasts
southwards. What splendid scenery! Craggy mountains on the east, the clear,
tranquil, turquoise Adriatic to the west – often with mountainous forested
islands not far offshore. Along the way were too many quaint fortified seaside
medieval towns to itemize. Trogir, however, was a real standout. I particularly
loved the carvings of Adam and Eve standing on lions decorating the cathedral’s
doorjamb. We started at Opatija, a seaside resort that became popular with the
Austrian nobility in the second half of the 19th century and is full of highly
ornate villas and hotels. We took a tour of the Istrian peninsula, stopping
first at Pula to visit its well-preserved Roman amphitheater and other Roman
ruins. We then went on to Porec to see the magnificent Byzantine mosaics in the
Basilica of Euphrasius.
Our arrival in Split
coincided with the 100th anniversary of Split’s football team and all the
attendant festivities. It was strongly recommended that we stay close to the
hotel that evening! Split is a fascinating mix of Roman, Medieval, Venetian
Renaissance, Baroque, Austro-Hungarian, and Secessionist (a Viennese twist on
Art Nouveau) architecture – a combination we were to see in many other cities as
well. The vast Palace of Diocletian (305 A.D.) is Split’s main attraction.
Originally built right on the sea, huge vaults were constructed in the basement
level to contain the water as the tides rose and fell. These vaults still stand
– wonder if the Big Dig will still be standing in 1700 years? The Palace walls
surround many Roman temples that have been converted to churches; a peristyle
court; and numerous other buildings – all either still inhabited or turned to
commercial purposes. While there, we were treated to traditional Croatian folk
songs sung by an a cappella quartet. Their harmonies were pitch perfect.
In order to drive from
Split to Dubrovnik, you have to pass through Bosnia-Herzegovina’s 5 mile wide
access to the coast. Sadly, as soon as you cross the border it’s clear that the
country you are in is not as well off as its neighbors.
Dubrovnik should be on
everybody’s life list. The famous walk along the top of the massive city walls
afforded unforgettable views of the orange-tiled rooftops, assorted
fortifications, fishing fleet, and aquamarine sea. Inside the walls is an array
of ancient churches, monasteries, palaces and fountains as well as many
restaurants. Quite by chance we stumbled upon the tiny Lucin
Kantun on Vl. Nenad Lipanovic. The food was so delicious we returned the
next night, despite a driving rainstorm. I’m still dreaming of young Chef
Bogol’s Lamb Kebabs with Honey and Lavender!
From Dubrovnik, we took a day trip to Montenegro (see
separate blog.)
We turned inland for the last third of our journey. The
looooong drive to Zagreb was through some of the hilliest stoniest farm land
I’ve ever seen. We also passed by many low-lying fertile valleys in which it
looked like the farmers had a much easier time cultivating their crops.
Zagreb has a picturesque older Upper Town and an elegant
newer Lower Town, both filled with more museums, churches, and other historic
buildings than we could visit in the short time we were there. The city was
ravaged by an earthquake in 1880, so many of the buildings were repaired or
rebuilt at that time and the city has a distinct Austrian neo-Baroque look to
it. We drove along the city’s famed horseshoe of parks (which I’ll bet are
gorgeous when the trees are in leaf) and saw many of the large stately buildings
dedicated to the various arts that line the parks.
In the Upper Town, St. Mark’s exterior is notable for its
splendid Gothic doorway and colorful tiled roof. The interior is graced with
several statues by Croatia’s well-loved modern sculptor Ivan Mestrovic, whose
distinctive works are found throughout the country. We found time to visit the
National Museum of Naïve Art, a showcase for a form of folk art painted on glass
that is particularly characteristic of mid-20th century Croatia. The
Cathedral of St. Stephen is a very ornate neo-Gothic structure that houses the
tomb of the blessed Cardinal Alojzje Stepinac – I was thrilled, as all four of
my brothers attended his eponymous high school in New York.
For dinner in Zagreb, we went to one of the microbrewery
Medvedgrad’s beerhalls and had
a delicious meal with some really excellent beer. The sausages,
overdone beans, and sauerkraut were particularly good.
This fascinating tour ended with 2 days in Slovenia,
related separately.
2011 Mimi Santini-Ritt