Thailand


Thailand is known as the “Land of Smiles,” a most fitting sobriquet. What a warm, friendly country! Larissa and I saw much of it from Bangkok to the northernmost tip of the Golden Triangle, as well as the Angkor Wat area of Cambodia, on our most recent globe-trotting expedition. Our trip was under the aegis of Smartours, a company that conducts first-rate tours at prices that are astoundingly inexpensive. The tour guide we had in Thailand, Nini, was exceptional – fun, experienced, knowledgeable, and always finding ways to take our experiences beyond that of a normal tour. Our hotels were both luxurious and well-located; our fellow travelers pleasant and interesting; and the itinerary comprehensive while leaving us plenty of time on our own (giving us opportunities to hire a private guide and driver in order to ensure that we saw EVERYTHING in our own inimitable manic fashion.) January was the perfect month to undertake this trip -- the weather, which can be unbearable, was relatively cool and dry.

The gentle spirit of Buddhism imbues every aspect of Thai life. We’d never seen a country that lived its religion so faithfully. Temples are numerous and carefully tended. At the same time, there is a confusing (to us outsiders) worship of the various Hindu gods and even nature spirits -- every business and home has a spirit house, a small lovingly cared for shrine to the resident spirits displaced by human activity. Given this, it should come as no surprise that Thailand is replete with vast magnificent wats. These are huge complexes, usually comprising several chedis (roughly bell-shaped towers similar in function to pagodas), “libraries,” a large ordination hall, the temple building itself, and occasionally cells for resident monks. Bangkok has many that are way over-the-top spectacular, covered with gilt and colored glass mirrors that shimmer, gleam and sparkle in the sun. One favorite, Wat Arun, has five towers decorated with flowers, geometrics, and figures all made out of broken Chinese porcelain.

On our trip north, we visited some very interesting ruins of wats in the ancient Siamese capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. In Lopburi, right in the middle of a city surrounded by busy traffic and railroad tracks, a troop of pesky monkeys makes the remains of the temple grounds its home. One stole the prescription sunglasses right off the face of one of our group and took off, never to be seen again. Near Chiang Rai we stopped at Khan Rang, a temple in the process of being built by one of Thailand’s most successful living artists. It’s all white and mirrors and filigree and looks like a wedding cake – can’t wait to see the finished version!
 
                                                                           Khan Rang

Thais are in general agreement that the Emerald Buddha, carved out of a solid piece of jade and set high above the worshippers on a golden platform, is their most precious Buddha image of all. It seems like every other temple lays claim to Thailand’s second most sacred statue of Buddha, and we saw them all—meditating, standing, striding, and reclining—ranging from a 5-ton solid-gold Buddha to a 150-foot-long reclining Buddha.

We had many incredible and amazing experiences in Thailand. We went to the Damnoen Saduak floating market, traveling through canals lined with teak houses on stilts in a “James Bond long-tailed boat” (The Man with the Golden Gun.) The market is jammed with vendors in boats selling everything from exotic produce (we sampled mangosteens and rambutans) to shadow boxes of scorpions and bats.

 We visited a complex of hill-tribe villages populated by the Karen (known for its “long-necked girls” wearing multiple brass neck rings that push down the shoulders, thus elongating the neck), Akha, and Yao tribes, who at the behest of Nini welcomed us into their homes. We saw a pineapple plantation, a rice mill, and a bronze Buddha foundry. We traveled the Mekong River, stopping off to get our passports stamped in Laos.We learned about monk lifestyle and Buddhism during “Monk Chat” at Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai and gained merit by offering monks food at dawn.

A real highlight was our visit to the Maesa Elephant Camp, where we had an hour-long elephant ride through the forest, up and down treacherously steep narrow paths. There, we saw a month old baby elephant with its mother and watched elephants painting (recognizable flowers!), playing soccer, and creating music on the harmonica.

We ate Thai and Khmer food at every opportunity, and had some truly memorable (and cheap) meals. In Bangkok, the Sala Rim Naan (affiliated with the famed Oriental Hotel) offers a multi-course Thai meal with superb traditional Thai dancing. At the Seafood Palace in Sukhumvit, you select your dinner live from the tanks in the kitchen. The grilled giant river prawn were UNBELIEVABLE – better than any shrimp or lobster we’ve ever had. We had great Mekong catfish with black pepper at the Rimkok Resort, our hotel in Chiang Rai. We got to be very fond of morning glory shoots after a visit to the Flying Vegetable (don’t ask) in Phitsanulok and ordered them whenever we could. We ate an assortment of (carefully selected) street foods—I even tried a fried caterpillar. We chickened out on “jumping shrimp,” a dish with tiny live shrimp that jump frantically when they are added to a hot chili sauce. The brave souls that sampled it proclaimed it delicious. We had other great meals at The Riverside in Lampang, the Antique House and The Gallery in Chiang Mai, and the Khmer Kitchen in Siem Reap. Have we mentioned the massages yet? For $5 you can have a “Thai massage,” for $7 an “oil massage” – not to be missed!

Mimi Santini-Ritt 2006