Scandinavia

We visited several Scandinavian cities on our Baltic cruise -- all very clean; easily navigated by a reliable (except in one near-fatal instance [don't you just hate foreshadowing?]) efficient public transportation system; and populated by friendly, helpful English-speaking natives. I visited a whole lot of churches, palaces, city halls, open-air folk museums and other museums. Each of the cities has a very interesting, very attractive older section. I'm aghast at how little we learn about Scandinavia in school -- there's a whole interconnected series of wars, dynasties, and intermarriages I knew nothing about. I was pretty manic (no surprise) in my sight-seeing and would bore everyone to death if I went into great detail, so I'll just give the highlights.

Helsinki -- Temppeliaukio Kirkko -- a modern church cut into the bedrock of a hill. The roof, a copper dome, is all that's visible from the exterior. The interior walls are solid rock. While we were there, the National Radio Orchestra was rehearsing for a concert.

Stockholm -- At the Folk Museum, everyone (grandfathers, babies, whoever) was dressed in folk costume. I thought they all must work there, ala Plimoth Plantation, until I saw some buying souvenirs. My next guess was that the Folk Museum must be like King Richard's Faire. I finally found out that it was Swedish National Day. There were flags waving and orchestras playing and picnics being consumed -- all very festive and wonderful.

Copenhagen -- a city of green spires. Got to Tivoli Garden at night -- the neon lights and light/laser/music show were magnificent. The royal family (headed by the well-loved Queen Magrethe) seems like real folks - the palaces are small and not ostentatious, the kings' studies are crammed full of bric-a-brac and family photos, and the queen wears the same dress several times. Christianborg Palace has a magnificent set of modern tapestries made for the queen's 50th birthday depicting the history of Denmark. Everyone from Adam and Eve to the Beatles and everything from the Vikings to the saving of Jews in WW2 is represented.

                                                                            Stavkirk

Oslo -- Bygdoy peninsula has many intriguing museums -- one dedicated to the Fram (the ca. 1900 wooden polar exploration ship from which Amundsen launched his expedition to the South Pole); a Viking Ship Museum (showcasing 3 Viking ships used for burying Viking royalty and the attendant grave goods); the Kon-Tiki Museum (which houses both the original Kon-Tiki and Ra II), and an open-air folk museum.

True confession time -- I've hit a new low as a tourist. Those of you who have been following the chronicles of your intrepid globe-trotting friend/relative may think that walking into the Japanese house was worse (Evan and David think so) -- it's close. I actually missed the boat in Oslo. But it really wasn't my fault (I know you're all thinking "Yeah, sure!" but hear me out.) The guy at the ferry told me the ferries ran "every 15 minutes, just like everything else in Oslo." There was a 4:10 ferry, it's a 10 minute ride and a 5 minute walk to the boat, all-aboard was 4:30, and the boat was scheduled to sail at 5:00. Plenty of time, or at least it would have been had the 4:10 ferry existed. Still scarcely enough time had the 4:25 ferry been on time. No ferry showed up until 4:35. You can do the math -- I was at the pier at 4:50 and much to my horror, the ship was pulling away. Luckily, they were able to back up and lower a mini-gangplank so I could board, as all 2,999 other passengers watched and cheered.

Mimi Santini-Ritt 2003